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Ingredients Library

Ingredients Filter

Alpha-Arbutin

Often called the natural hydroquinone, is a naturally occurring molecule derived from dried leaves of plant species like bearberry blueberry, cranberry and pear trees. It is a safer alternative to hydroquinone as its mechanism of action is to inhibit enzyme activity involved in producing melanin. It generally works well for all skin types and does not make the skin sensitive to the sun. It can be even more effective when used in conjunction with other skin brighteners like kojic acid, tranexamic acid and vitamin c. Studies have shown that alpha arbutin brightens the skin and is an effective skin lightening ingredient that can also decrease hyperpigmentation, improve uneven skin tone and discolouration. 

Aqua

Aqua is a universal solvent in cosmetics and can be combined with thick ingredients like oils and butters to form lotions and creams. In skin care, aqua dissolves thicker ingredients and facilitates the making of lighter products that spread evenly and can be rinsed off with water. It can be found in a range of skincare products like lotions and moisturizers, cleansing products, and bath products. Instead of leaving the skin feeling dry or chapped, aqua helps the skin feel hydrated and nourished.

Arachidyl alcohol

is a waxy fatty alcohol used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics. It is non-irritating as opposed to harsh, drying forms of alcohol. Arachidyl alcohol may also function as part of an emulsifying blend to help keep unlike ingredients (such as oil and water) from separating in a formula. Despite this benefit, it’s considered hydrophobic, meaning it’s nearly insoluble in water. This explains why it is often used as part of a blend with water-soluble emulsifiers. You can find this ingredient incorporated in all kinds of beauty products including facial moisturisers, body lotions, and anti-ageing treatments. It is not known to be a skin sensitizer in amounts commonly used in cosmetics.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP or brand VC-IP)

is the tetraester of ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid. It is a stabilize (heat and oxygen) oil-soluble vitamin C derivative that provides clinically proven superior percutaneous absorption. It effectively converts to free vitamin C in the skin, this multi-functional ingredient inhibits the activity of intracellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis to brighten, reduces UV -induced cell and DNA damage. It provides potent antioxidant functionality and boosts collagen synthesis. It reduces trans epidermal water loss, increases skin elasticity and visibly improves skin texture.

Azeloglicina

is a multifunctional ingredient that is generally safer and well tolerated due to its non-irritating properties to the skin and mucosa. It is stable in the pH range from 5-11 and is self-preserving. It acts as a skin brightening agent via tyrosinase inhibition and has significant sebum normalizing activity. It significantly increases skin elasticity and hydration; it is very effective at treating pigmentation and uneven skin tone.

Behenyl alcohol

Behenyl alcohol, also known as 1-docosanol, is a synthetic or plant-derived thickening agent and emulsifier used in cosmetics. It also serves as a hydrating ingredient. It’s considered a fatty alcohol not related to drying forms of alcohol. In its raw form it is a white, waxy solid.

Cetearyl Olivate

Cetearyl olivate is an ester made from the fatty acids of olive oil combined with cetearyl alcohol (a plant-derived emulsifier) or sorbitol (a plant-derived thickener) Cetearyl Olivate is known to be hypoallergenic, gentle, and safe even for sensitive skin. Benefits Include: Besides having an emulsifying function, it softens all skin types, which with it has a high compatibility.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Is a solid plant derived fat making it an excellent skin conditioner and emollient. It works by providing a protective film and enhancing the skin’s lipid layer. It’s often categorized as a “dry emollient” because of its ability to moisturise the skin, making it feel soft and smooth without leaving a greasy residue behind. It has excellent spread ability and leaves a dry velvety feel to the skin like how a silicon would. Furthermore, it emulsifies easily and has long term emulsion stability which facilitates the application of slow spreading ingredients. It has excellent dermatological compatibility and a comprehensive performance profile, such as solubilizing and dispersing ability for sun-care filters which is shy it is often used in sunscreens containing ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD)

Is a derivative of Kojic Acid and a fatty acid (palmitic acid) this chemical modification makes it more stable from pH 3-10, oil soluble and less irritating to the skin. KAD is superior to Kojic Acid in its lightening ability making good at suppressing skin pigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It is more stable in cosmetic formulations because it is more potent and lasts longer herby giving you better results. It is stable in heat and light with no colour change.

Liquorice Root Extract

Is derived from the licorice plant (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) and has been used for medicinal purposes for years. As the name suggest it is where the sweet candy treat comes from, however it is a common ingredient used in many skincare products to lighten discoloration and pigmentation. It contains an active ingredient called Galbridin, which inhibits the enzyme called tyrosinase which helps to decrease the production of melanin and re-balance the skin cells. Licorice root extract may also help to diminish dark under eye circles and darkened areas caused by scars. It’s also shown to possess anti-inflammatory properties as well as powerful antioxidants that helps to protect the skin from free radical induced damage. Other helpful ingredients found in licorice root extract include licochalcone which helps to control oil production, making this a good ingredient for acne prone skin. 

Niacinamide

Also known as Vitamin B3, and Nicotinamide is a water-soluble vitamin, it is one of the most stable actives in skincare and has a very neutral PH of 7, it works synergistically to increase the effectiveness of other actives ingredients. Niacinamide can help to rebalance uneven skin tone, improve the appearance of pores, reduce discolouration, soften fine lines and wrinkles, strengthen the skin barrier by boosting ceramides, improve moisture retention and reduces irritation and inflammation in the skin. Niacinamide is very effective at 5% and is the recommended amount for skin of colour because it decreases the chances of irritating the skin.

Oenothera Biennis (Primrose Oil) (EPO)

Is extracted from the seeds of the yellow evening primrose plant (Oenothera Biennis). The plant is a rich source of up to 25% omega-6 essential fatty acids which contains linoleic acid as well as gamma-linolenic acid. EPO has a long history of skincare uses for centuries and it is this fatty acid profile that is largely responsible for its beneficial effects on the skin. EPO is Known for its anti-inflammatory properties and can help to reduce erythema whilst being deeply moisturising which helps improve skin moisture to prevent tansepidermal water loss. 

Phenoxyethanol

Is a widely used preservative used in a variety of both leave on and rinse off cosmetic and personal care products and have been around since the1950s. It is known as a glycol ether or in other words a solvent used at 1% in formulations. It is described as an oily, slightly sticky liquid with a faint rose-like scent. It is highly effective in preventing the growth of fungi, bacteria and yeast that could cause products to spoil.

Potassium Azeloy Diglycinate

Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is an innovative new generation ingredient which is water-soluble obtained from the condensation of azelaic acid mixed with glycine. The glycine gives it a hydrating/moisturising effect that helps improve and increases the stratum corneum plasticity.

Rosa canina fruit oil (rose hip oil)

is a non-fragrant, emollient plant oil that moisturizes skin as well as providing beneficial fatty acids that soothe and strengthen skin's barrier. Additionally, Rosa Canina Fruit is known to be a source of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tocopherol (Vitamin E) both of which offers numerous antioxidant-related benefits to the skin. Rose Hip seed oil also contains antioxidants belonging to the carotenoid and flavonoid groups and is safe to use on the skin. 

Sorbitan olivate

Sorbitan olivate is a mixture of the fatty acids from olive oil plus a dehydrated sugar known as sorbitol. It is particularly soft and compatible with the skin, it reduces hydration loss and is used in different products for skincare, as well as in makeup. It is a good alternative as a hypoallergenic and biocompatible emulsifier. Sorbitan olivate may be synthetic or plant-derived and is considered safe for use on skin.  

Squalane

Is a highly versatile essential fatty molecule found in the skin created by the sebaceous glands. It can be naturally sourced from plants like, olives and sugar cane. It is non comedogenic so can be used for all skin types and grate for softening and smoothing the skin because it locks in hydration to create a protective barrier on the skin’s surface. It is a good option for dry, irritated and sensitive skin types because of its ability to calm redness and inflammation. 

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol naturally derived from vegetable sources and is a fatty alcohol that acts similarly to cetyl alcohol. They both improve skin texture while protecting the skin from allergens, bacteria, and moisture loss. Both cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are non-sensitizing, non-toxic, and safe. Stearyl alcohol is a thickener of cosmetic products, mainly creams and lotions. 

Tocopheryl Acetate

Is a stable form of Vitamin E, and a very powerful antioxidant that protects and conditions the skin. The lipophilic (oil based) nature of tocopherol makes it a great ingredient for providing the skin with moisture protecting oils that allows for its benefits to be absorbed through the skin. 

Tranexamic Acid (TXA)

Is a water-soluble synthetic ingredient derived from the amino acid lysine. Historically it has been used as an oral treatment for heavy menstrual bleeding. However, in skincare, it is a powerful ingredient known for its ability to brighten skin complexion through a complex process that involves different enzymes and receptors in the body. Tranexamic acid used between 2-5% is very effective at visibly reducing the appearance of discolouration caused by UV rays. (TXA) is a known tyrosinase inhibitor which works to inhibits the production of melanin being deposited into the skin cells. this is what makes it so perfect at treating hyperpigmentation and melasma especially in darker skin tones.